Backleads ?

[ddapscarper]

i am thinking of using them, but heard they can be more bad than good ? and views chaps

[jeffe]

Depends on how you use them, Cal.

I think the general the opinion is that you just shouldn't use them in weed. I nearly always use them for margin fishing but have used them for open water situations when the line goes straight across the bottom to the rig and there aren't any major humps or bars between the bank and the spot you are fishing. I also use a flying back lead too. In some situations that may be enough.

If you use Korda Intelligent Backleads they are called that because they fall off at every opportunity including simply reeling in. This means you have to go and buy more. Very intelligent. But this may be good if you're fishing in a situation where you need to dump the lead on a take. You might want to dump the back lead too.

I'm currently using a Fox version as the clips are quite good and they hardly fall off if you don't need them too.

[flighty]

Hi Callum, There was an article in one of the mags a few months ago by Simon Crow regarding bite indication being affected by the angles in your line & the effect back leads(amongst other things) have on the set up & it's ability to give a good, quick indication on the alarm/buzzers. Unfortunately I can't find the magazine, sorry. He basically advised that when using a back lead you need to ensure the back lead is heavier than your bobbin otherwise there is a risk that any undertow/drag on your line could cause the lighter back lead to rise off the bottom. It's normally OK with a straight forward clip on style lead. The problem arises when using something like a light flying back lead. Hope this helps a bit & maybe somebody may be able to find the relevant magazine & if your lucky even send you a copy.
John
ps I saw you at Kirby when you were walking around on Tuesday, pleased you caught a few.

[ddapscarper]

cheers chaps...... back leads should be fine on kirby then as there are vey few bars etc or weed and cheers for the advice flighty where were you fishing flighty ?

[blunkett]

Light backleads would be fine on Kirby mate to keep your lines down but to be honest on a water that size I'd prefer slack lines as you're always fishing in close. I'll use backleads but only when I absolutely have to normally just to avoid the boats but I avoid using them wherever possible as they reduce the sensitivity and it takes you longer to get control of a fish after a take. Quite often I find because it creates a pivot point between your rod tip and your rig the fish has moved quite some distance by the time you've had enough indication to pick the rod up. They're also a nightmare when you get a hard fighting fish ploughing up and down the margins at night. If you can't use leadcore and your water's not weedy a flying backlead with reasonably slack lines and light bobbins would be my choice.

[ddapscarper]

i use a flying backlead matey .... i find it practically impossible to get slack lines i think this may be down to heavy bobbins with out having them on the floor can u suggest a dcent light bobbin then matey ?

[woody]

I tend to go for the ones that are compact in shape like the rig marole ones as these tend to slide down the line abit easier, Never had the need to go above a o/z as I don’t have boats charging up & down the margins like Blunket ;D & any higher you end up with the pivot point as he referred to .
Also I found this pivot point created by a heavy back lead has a bearing on the action of your rod if you are using a light test curve as it takes a bit to pull them up off the bottom & get them sliding back down your line .
Get the balance right between the back lead, positioning & bobbing weight & you can fish a tight line if required with out giving to much away to other’s.
Keep away from the types with plastic or rubber on if you have got Cray’s in the water as they act as a magnet for the lobster coooournts

As for Bobbins.. I like my boring old Solar Fluoro’s that don’t have any blingy bog chains ::)on with the only weight being added or removed is by the ones that screw into the bottom of the bobbin

[flighty]

Hi Callum, I was fishing in the second swim down from the gate (swim 95) on Tuesday & two swims down on the previous Friday. (93) Next time you walk past & ignore me I will chuck you in, seriously stop for a chat, I don't bite & it would be nice to meet you. I am down there on Tuesday & Wednesday. I have been in and out of hospital recently so I may do my first overnighter for a while. If so pop round for a brew.

Regarding bobbins, I carry a selection of sizes / makes. Like Kev I use Solar fluoros but to be honest most of the time I like to use some of Fat Jays creations. These are attatched by Matrix Aero Cords with muddy waters kippa klips on the other end. This is just my personal choice, no doubt others will disagree & use something else but hey it's only a days fishing. Use what your happy/confident with & don't change your set up just for changes sake.
John

ps I have to agree with both Kev & Matt regarding what they refer to as pivot points. Ideally you want to reduce the number of "angles" between rod & lead. Thats why I prefer individual sticks, I can point each rod at the lead & adjust the height to take the angles out of each set up. It doesn't look fantastic in some peoples eyes but I find it works for me. The more angles/pivot points in your set up the further a carp can move your lead before it shows at your bobbin/alarm. Anyway, thats enough from me. There are far better anglers on this forum than me & hopefully they will be able to put you right where I might have got things wrong.

[ddapscarper]

didnt realise it was you mate, i can't even remember seeing anyone lol......i'm no longer at school so am practically livin down there apart from the odd day when i am working helping a roofer.

so keep you eyes out for me lol and let me know when your down for a night ill come and join you

and cheers for the advice chaps 8)

[ddapscarper]

has anyone used captive backleads ? they cold well be the answer the line pulls free when you strike and they are heavy and they are retrivable by hand so dont lose them everytime you get a take

[flighty]

Callum heres a write up on the fox captive leads written by Dave Lane, you might find it useful.

For some time now I (Dave Lane) have been experimenting with captive back leads, an experiment that was born out of necessity at first. I was fishing a lake that had speedboats and wind surfers on the water during the daytime, but one where I wanted to leave my baits in position for the late afternoon feeding spell. The problem was that due to the weed and severe gravel bars I did not want my line permanently held on the bottom once the boats had gone. By using a captive back lead I could simply release my line once the boats had gone. I soon began to realise other advantages such as avoiding the attentions of swans and geese who patrol the margins after dark. Also, when drifting weed becomes a problem in the autumn they prove invaluable when dropped directly below the rod tip, offering less line for the weed to cling onto. There were a couple of products on the market but neither was what I was really looking for so I started making my own. Now, at last, Fox have released a proper, working, captive back lead. No more swan problems in the night, no more drifting weed wiping out your lines as it chugs past on the wind and, obviously, lower line angles to fool wary carp. Normal back leads are ok in the right situation but sometimes you do not want one left on the line while you play a fish, and what if the margins are thick weed? The captives can even be fished off the bottom to avoid weed and detach instantly when you receive a bite. The unique gate system used in the clip ensures that any forward movement will trigger the gate and release the line but there is enough resistance when sliding them on to keep the gate firmly closed. I now use them for ninety percent of my angling situations and I usually fish them directly under the rod tip to keep the line clear from marauding swans and geese. You can fish a standard back lead further down the line if needed and still use the captive near the tip, getting the best of both worlds. Unlike standard back leads the captives are attached to a length of cord so once you have bought a set they should last you indefinitely. By fishing them on a tight cord from the bank stick you can keep them clear of the bottom, if need be, to avoid bottom debris, weed and snags etc, or slide them out on a long cord and fish them as a normal back lead. For Quattro Pod owners a special Captive Back Lead bar is available that clips onto the front two legs. The bar has three split rings at fixed intervals along it, each featuring a stainless steel clip to allow the winder from the Captive Back Lead system to be attached. All in all an ingenious little piece of kit! By Dave Lane

[garypoacher]

dont like back leads dont use em

[chris]

I am always nervy using backleads,when you are playing a fish and they do that final slide onto you main lead i dont like that coming together and as possibly formetioned the angle thats created when the two leads are swinging around add that to a barbless hook and

[jeffe]

The best "bobbins" for slack lines are MCF Rattlers. Because the indicator sits in a certain position on a little metal rod you can do what you like with your line - fish it tight, slck or whatever. Indication is excellent and you can tell whether you've had a liner, been mugged by the fish or got one on.

www.tacklebox.co.uk/product_search_results.asp?txtSearch=Rattlers